Food Stories · Episode 9 · Ingredient origin

The Pineapple You Couldn't Eat: Pineapples as a Status Symbol

In 1700s Britain a pineapple took years to grow in a heated greenhouse, so it was shown off, not eaten. The rental story and the Dunmore Pineapple.

Major Orange and Princess Punch in the Food Stories episode "The pineapple you couldn't eat"Video coming soon
A still from the episode. The video is coming soon to YouTube @wonderadeusa; the full transcript is below.

The short answer

Pineapples come from South America and could not grow outdoors in cold Britain. In the 1700s, wealthy families built heated greenhouses called pineries, and each plant took three or four years to make one fruit. A fine pineapple might sit on dinner tables for weeks as a display. Writers say some shops rented pineapples out for parties, though no old rental receipt has turned up.

  • Gardeners tended pinery stoves, sometimes sleeping beside the plants.
  • Prize pineapples were sometimes eaten only once they began to rot.
  • The Dunmore Pineapple in Scotland, a garden building topped with a giant stone pineapple, dates from 1761 and you can stay inside it.

The story (transcript)

Narration from the episode, as it is spoken.

Imagine you go to a fancy party, and the star of the table isn't the cake. It's a pineapple. And nobody is allowed to eat it.

So why was a pineapple such a big deal?

Pineapples come from South America. In Britain, two hundred and fifty years ago, it was way too cold to grow them outside.

So rich families built special heated greenhouses just for pineapples, called pineries. Gardeners kept the stoves going, sometimes even sleeping right next to the plants. Each plant took three or four years to make one pineapple.

That made the pineapple the ultimate show-off fruit. A fine one might sit on dinner tables for weeks, just to be admired, and get eaten only once it started to rot. Ew.

Here's a famous story: if you couldn't afford a pineapple, you could rent one for your party, then give it back. A historian who wrote a whole book about pineapples says some sweet shops rented them out by the day. But no one has shown us an old rental receipt yet, so call this one probably true.

And in Scotland, the Earl of Dunmore went all in. In his garden, he built a stone building with a giant stone pineapple on top. It's still standing, and you can even stay the night inside.

So next time you see a pineapple at the grocery store, give it a little bow. It used to be royalty.

Brought to you by Wonderade, the juice you wish you had when you were growing up.

Questions people ask

Why were pineapples a status symbol?
In 18th-century Britain they needed years of constant heat in special greenhouses to grow, so owning one showed great wealth.
Did people really rent pineapples?
Probably. A historian who wrote a book on pineapples says some confectioners rented them out by the day, but no period rental record has been published.
Where do pineapples come from?
South America. Kew Gardens places the cultivated pineapple's origin in Brazil and Paraguay.

Sources

Each source is listed with the facts we took from it.

  • Pineapple is a cultigen from southeastern and southern Brazil and Paraguay. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Plants of the World Online: https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:12322-2/general-information
  • Fran Beauman (author of The Pineapple: King of Fruits), "The King of Fruits", Cabinet 23: pineapple one of the great status symbols of the eighteenth century; pineries (hothouses solely for pineapples) needed constant heat; plants took three to four years to fruit; gardeners tended stoves, even sleeping among the plants; prize fruit shown at dinner parties for weeks and eaten only once they began to rot; some confectioners rented pineapples out by the day; Dunmore Pineapple base dated 1761, pineapple probably later, commissioned by the 4th Earl of Dunmore. https://cabinetmagazine.org/issues/23/beauman.php
  • "Pineapples were even rented for parties during this era"; rare and expensive because they need heat and humidity; Dunmore Pineapple. New York Botanical Garden, Endless Forms: https://sweetgum.nybg.org/science/projects/endlessforms/?p=314
  • Dunmore Pineapple: built 1761 as a garden retreat and folly for the 4th Earl of Dunmore, central pavilion of the walled garden's north wall; stone pineapple added slightly later; heated, double-flued garden walls; gifted to the National Trust for Scotland in 1974. Historic Environment Scotland, GDL00368: https://portal.historicenvironment.scot/designation/GDL00368
  • The Pineapple is a Landmark Trust holiday let (you can stay inside); walled garden open via the National Trust for Scotland. https://landmarktrust.org.uk/Properties-list/pineapple/holiday

How we checked this

What we simplified, hedged or left out, and why.

  • Renting: the claim is real in reputable secondary writing (Beauman in Cabinet; NYBG) but neither cites a period document, and popular pieces (ianvisits, Country Life, Art UK) repeat it without primary evidence. So the narration attributes it to "a historian who wrote a whole book about pineapples", says "some" shops, and labels it "probably true". The extra flourish that one pineapple was passed party to party until it rotted is left out.
  • "Two hundred and fifty years ago" = the 1770s, inside the period the sources describe (1700s pineries, the 1761 folly). The narration does not give a price because the figures in circulation (about £80 to grow one, "cost as much as a coach", six shillings a week's wages) vary and aren't well pinned down.
  • "Too cold to grow them outside" is the point; the narration says pineries were how they grew them.
  • "It used to be royalty" is a playful line, not a factual claim; the "King of Fruits" nickname is in Beauman's title.

Brought to you by Wonderade

Wonderade is a kids' juice box. See the nutrition facts or meet the flavors.

Join the founding families